In a global climate where most apparel is made overseas, a number of Powell River residents are working to localize the clothing creation process. Two of these designers are Alisha Van Belle and Jacquie Schluter.
Van Belle has been sewing since she was seven. “I’ve always been fascinated with the sewing machine,” she laughed. “I lost a lock of my hair when I was young by leaning too close to the wheel.”
Van Belle kicked off her business, Jo’momma Designs, seven years back, when she first began to sell at summer festivals across BC.
Last year, she hit six festivals, including the the renown Filberg Festival in Comox. For someone who personally sews every garment, preparation can be intensive.
During the summer, Van Belle sews every day, and some workdays last up to 12 hours. In a busy month, the designer can sew upwards of 300 garments.
“My running joke last year was that I was my own sweat shop,” she laughed. “You actually start to get problems in your neck and back.” To deal with the stress, Van Belle usually takes a break in the winter. She is also teaching other community members to sew her clothes.
In addition to festivals, Van Belle has moved to selling in stores, including Ecossentials on Marine Avenue and locations in Vancouver and on Hornby Island.
Schluter started out when she was young as well, with a school sewing class. She said the class didn’t move along fast enough for her, so she started taking projects home.
After sewing in her spare time through to adulthood, Schluter decided to sell her creations. She started with a small consignment at the now-defunct Blue Cat Mall. Eventually, she began to sell clothes and bags at Dragonflyz Inc shortly after it opened. Now, she also works out of the Etsy store Jacquiesews, through which she has sold to people all across the world. “Australia and London are my furthest,” Schluter noted.
Both creators are inspired by specific aspects of the world around them.
Van Belle’s main influence is nature. All her garments use natural fibers. Some are based on trees and leaves.
Her counter-cultural, festival background is also influential. “I come from a vibrant culture of costumey people who spin fire and stilt walk,” explained Van Belle. She’ll take an aspect of a costume, such as a bustle, and tone it down so anybody would feel comfortable wearing it.
Schluter’s clothes, on the other hand, are mostly vintage inspired. Photos and catalogue cutouts of 50s-chic models and drawings cover her inspiration board.
Her bestsellers, however, are the simple canvas bags with interesting fabrics that she sells out of Dragonflyz. Another great seller is the old-fashioned aprons she makes out of cute, kitchy fabrics.
What sets both designers apart from many others is their lack of formal training. Van Belle uses a trial and error approach. Sometimes, it takes her many prototypes to create a specific look she has envisioned. “Every now and then,” she explained, “I find a limit where I think I can do something, but I realize I actually can’t.”
Once a prototype is developed, Van Belle creates a pattern from cardboard paper.
In order to mass produce, as she calls it, she sometimes makes different patterns for different sizes. Other times, she works up or down from the pattern she has. “In some ways, it’s kind of a charm,” said Van Belle. “You can find the exact tweaked one that fits you.”
Schluter’s sewing is less particular, more of a hobby rather than a business. She sews every day, but what she makes varies with her mood. She no longer uses patterns. Instead, she draws a design out on paper and works from what she has learnt over the years. Each piece is one-of-a-kind.
Sizes vary, usually according to the amount of fabric she has. Schluter decides which store to place the garment in depending on a number of factors, including catering to the specific markets. “Sometimes I’ll make something and I’ll think that it will photograph really well, but it doesn’t,” she said. “It’s better to be seen in person.”
Schluter can take multiple projects from start to finish in a day, but more intricate designs take longer. She often sews grad dresses, bridesmaid dresses and wedding gowns.
For both creators, procuring supplies in an isolated area is sometimes a problem. Van Belle must have the natural bamboo fabric she uses shipped from China. When it reaches Vancouver, she picks it up in her van to cut costs.
Schluter is resourceful with her fabric sourcing as well. “I’ve found lots of vintage fabrics at the [Powell River Health-Care Auxiliary],” she explained, adding that she also buys fabric from acquaintances. “Every time I leave town, I do try to make it worthwhile though.”
Though Van Belle said she dislikes the business side of making clothing, Schluter said she enjoys every step of the process. “When something sells on Etsy, I even love the way I package it up. It’s like wrapping a present,” she explained.
Her favourite part is seeing someone else wearing something she has made. “If I’m making something for them specifically, somebody may be too shy to say they don’t like it,” said Schluter. “If they just picked it up and bought it, they’ve chosen it.”
